As we have discovered, each day differs from any other because there are so many variables. Today was the first on the Great Allegheny Passage, a long-anticipated segment of the trip. Within minutes of departing the skies opened up and we spent the first 15 miles in and out of the rain. The unpaved trail performed amazingly well, just the opposite of the Katy Trail in Missouri, so we were able to keep rolling. Needless to say, we had the place all to ourselves.
Because of the delays we missed our second breakfast and dove right into lunch at the Chuck Wagon restaurant and bakery, so Bill had a second dessert instead. There were so many yummy looking choices! From that point on everything was wonderful. (Nonetheless, our theme song today, sung by the great lady Lena Horne, is Stormy Weather.) We saw 3 deer with long bushy white tails, a flock of wild turkeys, lots of cardinals darting across our path, a great gray heron, and a few fat groundhogs.
The trail follows the old rail bed along the Youghiogheny (pronounced yockahainy) River, with towering tree-covered hillsides to our right and a steep drop to the water on the left. Coal mining was a huge industry until 50 years ago. The photo of a gigantic cement cylinder is all that remains of the Banning #1 Mine; a trailside marker showed a picture of the complex that probably encompassed several square miles. Don’t forget to go the blog website to see Where We Are.
In a nearby patch (coal workers’ town) called Whitset, Percy approached us to chat. Right after his high school graduation, his dad asked Percy if he wanted to come work the mine with him. He replied, “only if I can wash windows in there!” and joined the Air Force instead. He then became a D.C. cop and FBI agent before returning to his roots.
We discovered yesterday that the weight we carry makes it very difficult to navigate the roads here. The motel we booked was too far to comfortably reach, but luckily we spotted a B&B a block from the trail and a room was available. The owners found this stray just a few weeks after their last dog died, and within minutes Odie was in my lap as I tried to get her photo.
42 miles and 1,834 so far. Connellsville B&B in, you guessed it, Connellsville, PA.
Unbelievable! Isn’t humanity wonderful? We are so glad that you are rolling on through this fabulous countryside, meeting these just plain honest folks who help in any small way! And now you’re in Shoofly Pie country. Bill will love that!
By: Marge Romberger on September 1, 2011
at 7:32 pm
Marge, Bill’s been eating shoofly since we met, since my mother introduced him to it almost 30 years ago. The people have made this trip worth all the struggles.
By: willmeriwether on September 2, 2011
at 4:43 am
I just finished reading the blog from cover to cover….what a great trip. Your pictures are like 100% pure unfiltered America. I was thinking about you guys yesterday morning during the rain. Wet crushed limestone can really make a mess of you and your gear esp your bottom bracket. Get those suckers scrub-a-dubbed when you have the chance. It was great meeting you! Tailwinds!!!
By: Bryan Durkin on September 2, 2011
at 1:58 am
Brian, it was so good to meet you and have you escort us. The GAP really held up in the rain and Bill hosed off the bikes and gear at the guesthouse. Keep in touch; once we get back to Denver you and your girlfriend are welcome to come stay with us. Email is pwkurtz@me.com
By: willmeriwether on September 2, 2011
at 4:41 am
Having been born and raised north of Pittsburgh, I know how you were in danger on the highways and byways. But aren’t people generous with their time and concern for you. Keep on peddling, it’s all downhill to Virginia. P
By: paula on September 2, 2011
at 7:08 am
Paula, tomorrow we cross the divide and will have an easy day. It is good to be on a trail and out of traffic!
By: willmeriwether on September 3, 2011
at 4:11 pm
Paula, All of us at the Botanic Gardens group are thoroughly enjoying your trip via your blog. Can’t believe all of the wonderful people you have met and the experiences that you are having. Can’t wait for you to return to Denver and hear all about your experiences. Safe journey!\
Nancy Haldi
By: Nancy Haldi on September 3, 2011
at 8:48 am
Nancy, we are loving it! The trail would be spectacular in spring when the mountain laurel blooms. Say hello to the group for me; I am anxious to get back in the garden with all of you.
By: willmeriwether on September 3, 2011
at 4:20 pm
So glad you all are on the GAP. Please get in touch when you are near DC. We’re the cyclists you met on Day 25 on the Katy Trail. You can use this e-mail — or the one I chck more regularly — vcrisafulli@comcast.net. Hope to see you and hear more about your trip.
Valecia and Larry
By: VIC on September 3, 2011
at 2:47 pm
Valecia, we plan to spend 3 nights near Antietam so we should get to DC around the 12th. Will email when we are closing in.
By: willmeriwether on September 3, 2011
at 4:30 pm